April 29–30 | Crossing Larkya La Pass (5106m)

We set out at 5:00 AM, just as the first light broke and the stars still clung to the sky. A ribbon of headlamps traced up the mountain ahead—winding through the icy silence, into the vastness of snow and rock.

The first stretch felt manageable. But around 4600m, the wind picked up sharply, and the temperature dropped to -10°C. I stopped briefly to pull on every layer I had. Then the climb continued—slow, steady, cold.

Three hard hours later, we reached Larkya La Pass—sooner than expected, pushed by wind and the chill. At 5106m, it was too cold to linger. Just a few quick photos, a quiet look around, and we began our descent.

I thought about the climbers who take on Everest without oxygen. Up here, even this feels immense. I can’t begin to imagine their strength.

The way down to Bhimthang (3800m) was steep and slick, snow covering the entire path. For once, I was grateful to have carried my crampons—they made all the difference.

In total, the crossing spanned about 16 kilometers. Exhausting, surreal, and unforgettable.

By the time we reached Bhimthang, a hot shower and a cold beer felt like the best reward in the world.